Le coton au Pakistan : un "lien vital entre les champs et la scène mondiale"
The country is 5th global producer of textile fiber. In the country's economy, its cultivation is crucial. The FARM Foundation met with Muhammad Javed [1], “Cotton” advisor to APTMA, an association for the textile industry bringing together more than 350 companies in the sector in Pakistan[2].

For an analysis of the Pakistani agricultural sector and its social, economic and environmental challenges, Find the FARM Foundation's analysis here.
FARM: How important is the cotton value chain in Pakistan? How can we assess its contribution, as a fiber and food, to the economy and food security?
Muhammad Javed: The cotton value chain in Pakistan plays a vital role, intertwining itself with the fabric of the country's economy and the lives of its people. historical link with cotton is deeply rooted in Pakistan's past. With a heritage dating back to 5,000 BC, cotton is an integral part of the national identity. Cotton is more than just a crop; it is a vital link between the fields and the world stage. Cotton reigns supreme among cash crops, representing 65 % foreign exchange earnings.
It's a vital resource for nearly 26,000 farmers, which occupy more than 15,000 million of cultivated land and contribute 4.5 million to agricultural GDP. It is an important driver of national prosperity. Cotton's journey does not end in the fields. It fuels the powerful engine of Pakistan's textile industry, the country's largest agro-industrial sector. This sector, closely linked to cotton, employs 17,000 million of the population, generates 65,000 million of foreign exchange, and contributes 8.5 million to GDP. Today, Pakistan is the fifth largest cotton producer and third largest consumer/producer of cotton yarn in the world.
But the value of cotton goes far beyond its fibers. Cotton seed is a world in its own right, full of diverse uses. Cottonseed oil, a healthy staple food, feeds families and adds additional economic value. But its uses extend beyond the frying pan; the oil is used in soap, margarine, cosmetics, and even pharmaceuticals. Cotton's role in food security should not be overlooked. Even the remains of the cotton plant play their part. The stems become fuel in rural areas. They are even being explored as a source of biofuel, offering a glimpse of a more sustainable future.
Despite his undeniable contributions, The cotton industry faces many challenges. Market fluctuations, technological advances, and international competition require constant adaptation and innovation. Adopting advanced agricultural practices, prioritizing research and development, and seeking strategic partnerships will be essential to ensure the industry's continued growth and competitiveness.
FARM: Could you elaborate on the social issues affecting the sector, including issues related to working conditions and farmers' livelihoods?
Muhammad Javed: While the cotton sector has always faced the problems of child labor and forced labor, considerable efforts have been made at the government and NGO levels to combat these practices. There have been many programs like Better Cotton, projects with the International Labour Organization and the FAO, etc. Today, in my opinion, these are no longer common concerns in the sector thanks to the work carried out (editor's note: In most provinces of Pakistan, it is legal to work from the age of 14, see in particular the project works CLEAR Cotton).
However, There are still challenges to ensuring fair and safe working conditions for all workers, improve the livelihoods of smallholder farmers and promote sustainable practices that benefit both communities and the environment.
Some concerns remain regarding low wages, irregular employment and limited access to basic amenities for adult workersInitiatives are underway to promote better working conditions, guarantee stable incomes for workers and strengthen mechanisms to protect workers' rights.
The sector is also facing major challenges for smallholdersThey have limited access to credit, outdated farming techniques, and a reliance on traditional methods. This can hamper productivity and incomes. Price fluctuations also add to the instability. Programs are being implemented to provide farmers with access to finance, technology, and training in sustainable practices. These initiatives aim to improve productivity, increase incomes, and create a more resilient agricultural sector. Investments are being made in healthcare, education, and other essential services to improve the overall well-being of communities.
FARM: Given global concerns about environmental sustainability, how is the cotton industry in Pakistan addressing environmental challenges?
Muhammad Javed: As is the case everywhere in the world, Water use is one of the main challenges we faceSome experts claim that cotton is the largest consumer of water of all agricultural products. To address this, efforts have been made to improve water use efficiency by adopting more economical irrigation techniques, such as drip irrigation or rainwater harvesting systems. Research is underway to develop cotton varieties that are more drought-resistant, thus reducing the overall water requirements for cultivation.
In addition, the climate change has led to unpredictable weather events and natural disasters such as floods and droughts, which can also affect production.
Another challenge is the prevalence of pests and diseases that can affect cotton crops. The country has faced the pink bollworm, which can significantly reduce yields. Many cotton-growing regions, including Pakistan, have encouraged practices integrated pest managementIt is a combination of biological control, cultural practices and judicious use of pesticides to minimize the impact on the environment.
Farmers are trained in these practices to reduce their reliance on chemical pesticides and minimize their impact on ecosystems. In addition, crop rotation practices are encouraged to maintain soil health and fertility, reducing the need for excessive chemical inputs.
Conservation agriculture and cover crops are used to prevent soil erosion, increase water retention, and improve overall soil structure. Some farmers are also moving toward organic farming practices, avoiding synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to promote soil health.
There are also public policies such as regulations to control water and pesticide use in agriculture, subsidies or financial incentives, and certifications that can help the industry, and especially farmers, address environmental challenges. For example, cotton producers can participate in certification programs such as the Better Cotton Initiative cited above (BCI), which sets global standards for sustainable cotton production, encompassing environmental and social criteria.
FARM: Technological advances are presented as a solution to these challenges. How do you proceed and how does this increase productivity, reduce environmental impact and improve the general socio-economic conditions of producers?
Muhammad Javed: This is being done today with a multifaceted approach. Recognizing the need for continuous innovation, the cotton industry in Pakistan is seeking to obtain technology transfers from developed countries, particularly from Europe. The emphasis is on adopting regenerative agriculture practices, taking advantage of advances in the use of biofertilizers and biopesticides.
Collaboration with experts and institutions from developed regions facilitates the exchange of knowledge, promoting sustainable and environmentally friendly practices in cotton cultivation.
We know the importance of the seed quality for cotton cultivation, particularly in the context of climate change. A centralized seed system with clear rules has been established to govern production, multiplication, and distribution. Solid seed certification process have been implemented to verify the maturity and authenticity of the varieties marketed.
Active participation of the private sector, including seed companies and agricultural cooperatives, in seed production and distribution is encouraged. A transparent and accountable system ensures the supply of high-quality seeds to farmers.
The existing seed certification system is being strengthened to prevent the spread of immature varieties and to control the sale of fake seeds. DNA tests conducted in internationally accredited seed testing laboratories ensure the physical and genetic purity of seeds.
Modern agricultural technologies, such as drones and mechanical harvesters, are also being encouraged to improve the efficiency of seed production. Investments in mechanized processes reduce labor costs and increase overall productivity. State-of-the-art seed processing plants ensure efficient seed cleaning, sorting, and packaging.
Since the 2000s, the GMO technology is used for production. The Bt cotton, a genetically modified cotton variety, is the main variety cultivated in Pakistan. It aims to address pest problems, improve yields, and reduce reliance on chemical pesticides in cultivation. The adoption of genetically modified cotton has played an important role in changing practices in Pakistan.
Comments collected by Matthieu Brun, scientific director of the FARM Foundation.
[1] Dr. Muhammad Javed oversees cotton research and development activities for APTMA in Pakistan. He has extensive experience in breeding and developing cotton varieties resistant to biotic and abiotic stresses.
[2] The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) is a Pakistani trade organization representing the textile sector, comprising 350 textile companies. The association is committed to safeguarding the commercial interests of these companies, as well as the cotton industry.